Kimchi

Warm, crisp and sharp - this beautifully fermented cabbage comes in many forms - but the mainstay of Kimchi, the one which can be found accompanying dried fish and rice for breakfast, salt beef rice porridge in the winter and BBQ in the summer is matt Kimchi, cut in advance - it saves a bit of mess later on. Kimchi has a long history, the first manifestations were without spice or even cabbage.

Original forms would have been salted vegetables like Donjang (brown soybean paste), which can be enjoyed in soups as a replacement for miso, with crudites and as an accompaniment to BBQ - when combined with Gochujang (red pepper paste) it takes on an intense heat and is delicious.

In the beginning, the stress of modern life may make kimchi making difficult for you, we have been force fed a culture of quick and convenient food which, at first, is difficult to counter. The key is to be patient, while the kimchi is fermenting, do other things. Enjoy your time, the beauty of slow cooking in general, is that it frees you to do other things. The more often you make kimchi, the more confidence you will have to allow time to take its course and yield the results you desire. With experience, you will be able to adapt these recipes to your taste, and at this point you will have developed your own family recipe, which you can pass on, just as they do in Korea.

Kimchi is made in three stages.

Stage 1: To brine the cabbage. Inspect the outer leaves and discard any which are bruised, turning yellow or brown, have any smelly slime (at this point spoilage bacteria have taken grasp of the cabbage and the smell may have permeated through to the core), the rest of the cabbage can be used as normal. Cut in half and wash thoroughly. Next, cut lengthways through the middle of the cabbage leaving the core intact, turn and cut into bitesize pieces. Place into a large sealable container. As you cut the cabbage, layer salt through the leaves. I’ve found 13g of salt per cabbage is enough. Seal in an airtight container, then ensuring a tight grip on the seal, give it a good shake so that all the salt dispurses amongst the cut leaves.

Allow to stand at room temperature for at least 4 hours - wash the cabbage and drain, I also squeeze the cabbage to remove excess water - the cabbage should wilt, becoming flexible, but still crisp to the bite. Waiting for the cabbage to brine is the perfect time to prepare the kimchi mixture. The mixture can also be used to prepare whole cabbage kimchi.

You will require a sharp knife, grater/food processor, chopping board, julienne peeler, peeler, spoon.

Stage 2: Peel the onions, garlic, ginger and apple and grate or process until fairly smooth. The apple should be done last so that it does not oxidise before you are ready to mix it with all the other ingredients. Next, peel the mooli and cut it into small squares (or julienne), then peel the carrot and use the julienne peeler, or use your knife skills to cut into thin matchsticks.

Wash and slice the spring onion - cut at an angle/ thin slice or process. Then add the red pepper powder, sugar and fish sauce (optional). Mix it all together and add to the pre-brined - washed and drained cabbage.

Use a disposable glove to mix if you want to avoid irritation and staining of your hand. The kimchi is ready to eat straight away - at first it will be hot with ginger, garlic and spice, then each flavour will roll around the palette, presenting themselves separately and then combining in a heat filled, umami finale.

Stage 3: Next is the fermentation stage. The kimchi should be stored at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours. The longer it is left out, the stronger the fermentation will be. After this initial period, it should be stored, preferably in a kimchi fridge. However, the salad tray of the standard fridge will suffice, as it is the combination of chilled, still air - which is required to recreate the conditions of a buried earthenware pot. One week in the fridge is enough to develop a good complexity. However, if you are patient enough, three weeks will give the most outstanding results. If stored well, the kimchi can be stored for months, I even kept one for a whole year and then enjoyed it in a kimchi soup. As the kimchi matures, it will develop complexity - the 48 hour kimchi will become sour very quickly. Personally I prefer the 24 hour fermentation, for me it gives a well rounded flavour that has been enjoyed by many people.

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For a video demonstration of Kimchi - go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lu-A3vRHiv4